Ana Ljubinković majored in paintings and graduated from the Faculty of Fine Arts in Belgrade in 2002. Before the graduation, she experimented with fashion sketches as a result her first collection Fall/Winter 2004 was presented at the Belgrade
Fashion Week. Ana Ljubinković, who doesn’t follow fashion trends, applies her individual vision into fashion.
Oh, at the beginning, 10 years ago it was just for fun, for the sake of trying something new, but now it’s a passion and I take every collection very, very seriously. I can say that my fashion label was truly established with my Spring/Summer 2010 collection. From then on, it became serious. Back then, I started to make my own patterns, and realized that I was really good at it.
Her background of visual arts has been very helpful in creating the DNA of label: vibrant colors and patterns, sculptural silhouettes, embellishments, unique details and perfect fit. In addition to the clothing, Ana makes her own shoes to match her designs. The universe and nature have been a continuous source of her inspirations. Ana Ljubinković loves animals and never uses real leather or fur in the garments. She is one of the founders of the Belgrade Design District (Bdd), where various designers have their stores or art studios.
This ability opened the door to so many possibilities by introducing sculptural elements to my fashion. Before that I had used more – less basic shapes with interesting details and colors. And as I said, every 2-3 collection something important happens, but I will try to take another step as soon as I can with the next collection.
Ana Ljubinković has been awarded numerous prizes for her work: Pantene Beauty Award for the best young fashion designer in 2006; ‘fff’ Serbian edition of Cosmopolitan magazine award, as a woman of the year 2007; Elle magazine’s Elle Fashion Award for the most original collection of Spring/Summer 2012. She featured her designs at the International Fashion Showcase 2013 in London, February 2013 as one of the best Serbian designers.
“Army Dreamers” is Kate Bush’s song. I usually listen to a lot of Kate Bush and Cocteau Twins when I am creating. Their music sets me in a perfect mood, it triggers my imagination, soothes my nervous system and most importantly, opens that door to a parallel world that I am always looking for.
So, I created an army that chases perfection, original creation and a better world, so it’s really an army of dreamers. These women are dressed in some kind of a uniform like garments, but still have that clown like funny side.
So, are they chasing something that can not be caught, or are they real soldiers? I truly believe in the idea, original and perfection. They are real, because I gave them life.
Ana has been also invited as the fashion/guest editor of several magazines: Belgrade’s Prestup magazine 2006/2007; Serbian edition of L’Officiel magazine 2008/2009; Serbian edition of Cosmopolitan magazine 2011/2012 and a guest editor of Spring/Summer 2013 edition of Belgrade’s fashion & amp; art magazine Faar. She created looks for Serbian celebrities, TV shows and movies. Her latest collection “Army Dreamers” for Fall/Winter 2014-15 was presented at the Belgrade Fashion Week.
Now is a good time to answer this question, because it was almost a month ago – I am really satisfied with the show. And, it isn’t always the case, because I am very strict when it comes to judging, if I like it or not. I usually only see my mistakes, but this pushes me further.
Every 2-3 seasons I make a collection that marks a new beginning for my fashion, and this collection is the one. I made a smaller collection with 14 outfits, but I decided to do so, because I needed to really work precisely on each and every look.
The source of inspiration were Renaissance and Baroque facades, interiors and Kate’s Bush song “Army Dreamers”. Ana Ljubinković created an army of dreamers, who were looking for perfection in a better world. The outfits resembling a uniform were precisely cut to the perfection by using puzzle principles and adorned with handmade plaster ornaments.
Visually I wanted to create that strict uniform look, but my basic inspiration are Renaissance and Baroque facades and interiors. Embellishments were then used, made the buildings more accessible to the emotions, but when I used these sort of ornaments on the garments, they made them look even more stricter and dignified.
So, these plastic ornaments I hand made, which completed the look of some sort of an army. Cuts are made to associate to the building elements, and colors are freely used to keep that fun, cartoon and comic mood I like.
This time around, the creations had architectural shapes, sharp lines and striking contrasts in the colors. The embellishments played a key role in the collection. Ana Ljubinković collected different elements of furniture, chandelier and etc., and she molded them into the ornaments, which were placed on the garments.
The most important part of this collection are embellishments. It was quite of a journey collecting the furniture ornaments, parts of chandeliers, plaster ornaments and what not, and then making the molds to create these plastic ornaments. Then, I was ready to draw the sketches and create the garments that would hold these ornaments, finding a perfect postament for them.
My fashion has always been deeply connected with fine art in it’s basics, this time I introduced architecture to it. For me, the only thing that matters is creating something original or new.
Being a fashion designer in Serbia means that one has to get used to not finding perfect/wanted materials, so I manage to solve this problem by making sketches without any color or fabric plan, and then use what’s best to find. So creating one piece can take long time when fighting such occasions.
But, I like to work for as long as it takes on my sketches, thinking over the smallest details, and then, when it comes time to bringing them to life, it doesn’t take long, because I already have a precisely elaborated idea.
The lineup was unique, edgy and colorful with a perfect fit. Ana Ljubinković constructed masterpieces of art, which come to life with each piece fitting perfectly in her Army of Dreamers that marches for a better world.
Ana Ljubinković “Army Dreamers” Fall/Winter 2014-15 Belgrade Fashion Week
Photos: Djordje Tomic
Hair: Olivera Milicevic for O’livio O’livio Unisex Hair Studio & Academy
Makeup: Marko Nikolic
Models: Jovana, Ivana, Marina, Mina, Helen, Nevena, Anđela, Ana & Aleksandra, Fox Models & Fashion Studio Click
Ana Ljubinković “Army Dreamers” Fall/Winter 2014-15 Loobook
Photos: Miloš Nadaždin
Hair: Olivera Milicevic for O’livio O’livio Unisex Hair Studio & Academy
Makeup: Marko Nikolić & Sanja Grbić
Models: Ivana Momirov @Fox Models & Mijo Mihaljčić @IMG
If you would like to know more about Ana or her brand Ana Ljubinković, feel free to visit the links below. AnaLjubinković.com
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